The Cornwall Adventure – 2011
Monday 6th June
I’ve got a new SATNav. Unfortunately the old one died. (I am grateful to my family who bought it for me.) I ordered it from Amazon and it was delivered on Friday. I first used it on Sunday to get me to a location to prepare for a Pagan wedding photo session. Last week I was driven to do a similar activity to prepare for a Goth wedding shoot. Are Christians getting married? The issue is that the SATNav was not good at drawing the map; this function being unreliable. However, it did talk me through the drive,
So, on Monday morning I was delighted to find that the recycling men were late and so I was able to rescue the Amazon packaging. Now with the reassurance that I could easily return the devise, the car packed, the thing set up with our destination, we set off for Cornwall. Unfortunately the machine failed to draw the map and stuck 64% complete. As we drove I got Irene to reboot the machine. Now I had a map, but after a while (some 5 miles) realised that it was not navigating. Another reboot and now the lovely lady was giving instructions and the map was fully active. At one point her clear instruction was ‘drive 42 miles’
Our first stop was at (place name needed[1]). I can’t currently check the name as it Tuesday morning in the B and B room and my map is in the car and I do not have Wi-Fi password. At this point Irene took over the driving which was to take us to the end of the M5 and some way along the A30. The maps do not show service stations on trunk roads. (Generalisation; (I am good at these) I should say ‘my map does not’.) Close to Oakhampton there was a sign to an off-road service area which we carefully followed; the machine protesting and finished up back on the A30. However, a little further on was an easier to find one, which allowed a pit stop and had a good picnic area where we could sit, allow the wind to deodorise (blow the sweat from under our arm pits) and eat our picnic lunch. So far the machine was behaving really well. We were enjoying our drive and had just a little more than an hour to go.
So, off the A30 and a few miles to go. Three thirty and here was Newquay. Now here was the internet cafe, now was the pedestrianised area, now was the side of the internet cafe, now was the pedestrianised area, etc. What about asking in Sainsburys? No one seems to live in the area. Repeat the process. At last help. This involved ‘parking’ on the double yellow lines while Irene dashed into the information centre. Out she came with maps marked by a very kind gentleman. He was most reassuring. He quoted a similar occurrence when a lorry driver was unable to find the Lynton Guest House. After making several attempts the kind gentleman had jumped into the lorry driver’s cab and personally navigated us. He said that he finished work at 5.30 and would be prepared to take us to our destination personally. In the evening we met him again and he gave me a very firm handshake as I gave him our most sincere thanks.
Armed with the map we set off and eventually worked out that we were meant to go down a street that had a sign saying that there was no vehicular access. Having navigated the many pedestrian bodies we came to a sign pointing towards ‘The Crescent Hotels’. Arrive, we did, at 4.30.
Arriving at Lynton House
View From Lynton House
We were shown to a pleasant room with ensuite by a pleasant b and b owner called Mandy. After a cup of tea it was time to explore and find food. We walked only a little and came across a somewhat seedy bar, with gaudy red doors which advertised a restaurant upstairs. We braved the noisy bar below and made a straight line for the stairs. Upstairs was ‘dark’. The music was more subdued and a man was hovering about. I found it necessary to ask him if food was being served. He asked us to find a table, consult a menu and order at the bar. We found a nice table for two in the bright sunshine. Outside was the roof top area almost level with the bus station. The two course meal was very tasty, as were the glasses of cider.
To end the evening we made our way to the harbour, watched the boats and the boys jumping into the area next to the sign that said ‘Swimming here is forbidden and could result in death.’ We did notice that the boys had a healthy respect for the sea lion that had been spied in the harbour. Basking sharks can also be found in this area. A game of cards and a bit of television ended the day. The bed, although not quite up the Travelodge standard was more than adequate.
Tuesday 7th June
A full English breakfast was served. We had a good conversation with a couple from Burton-on-Trent and a gentleman from King’s Norton.
With less than a full tank of petrol we set off for the Eden Project which was little over twenty minutes away. It is a great place. We had to remember that we were in car park ‘Lime 3’. A large articulated bus took us to the entrance. Booking on line meant a speedy check in free entry for the year came by ‘gift aiding’ the price. Down we went to the bio-domes. Firstly we went into the Mediterranean one and then into the rain forest one.
Biodomes
Mediterranean Zone
Tropical Zone
Irene’s sharp eye spied two tiny lizards. We spied one of them grabbing and consuming a large insect.
I jokingly asked Irene if she would go up there. Meaning to the forest look out platform. She said that she would like to. Unfortunately when we go to the entrance we were met with a notice saying that the temperature is greater than 40⁰ and so the area is closed.
Finding a bit of cake and a drink at the domes was difficult. However, we found a more useful cafe at the ‘Core’, which is an interactive display area. Sitting at a display there I concluded that the high price of copper was due to the large amount used in making solar cells. Who are the winners?
The Core - Coffee and an Exhibition
A walk back along the domes led us past the ‘Metal Man’ and some well planted gardens, and so to the land train.
(A huge tractor towing four carriages full of passengers.) It wound its way up to the top. From here there was no choice but to walk through the plant deck and though the shop. I always wonder why you just can’t leave the building? Once back at the car I checked for the nearest petrol station and was delighted to there was an Asda two miles away in St Austell. This was a brilliant choice as we paid 1p less than our usual at Long Eaton, and some 10p less than some of the local stuff. A small diversion paid off.
The route back was to lead to another diversion. I wanted straight on, but this was blocked. It is in these situations where SATNavs come into their own. I can’t remember how many times I have been diverted and from then on you are on your own. After an initial attempt to turn me back the SATNav easily plotted a good alternative route.
Once back (quite easy when you know how) we attempted to access the internet. The granite in the house made it impossible to do so from the room, so we went into the lounge and did our Facebook and email stuff. After this we went walkabout (not to the ‘Walkabout’ which is the landmark for this place.) We finished up at an Indian restaurant offering a ‘Tuesday Banquet’. This consisted of a choice of any starter, with any main and then ice-cream. It was a great meal in a great setting. It was just after we left there when the heaven decided to open and then close again and we reached the boarding house. A bit of ‘Holby City’ and typing followed by the climax to current ‘CSI’ season and its usual cliff hanger and then to bed.
Wednesday 8th June
After another, tasty and filling full English we set off towards ‘The Lizard’. It was quite a straightforward drive. There was evidence that there had been rain, but the sky stayed mainly blue for the journey. After Helston it was a straight drive south though and out of the Lizard village along a narrow lane to the car park. I (it is never we in these situations) made the mistake of parking too soon and paying too much when there was free parking a little nearer.
The first things that you see at Lizard Point are shops and a cafe.
The shop and the cafe boasted as being ‘The most southerly .... in England. It is pity that such a beautiful spot had to be littered with such places. After a brief exploration we headed for the lighthouse. Like all lighthouses white predominated. The only odd thing was that the chimneys, including the stacks were black. Among the things we learned on the tour was that the chimneys were painted black in order to preserve the profile of the building when seen from the sea. For many years sailors coming in from North America in daylight would have gotten their first bearings in the UK from the unique shape of the lighthouse complex. Given today’s recognition technology I wonder if a camera on board the ship could compare the view with all the other lighthouses in the world and simple give navigation confirmation without anyone even seeing land. Sad idea!
We also learned that this lighthouse was unique in another way. This being that a number of lighthouse keepers and their families lived on the site. They would be paid, have uniforms, live rent free, have free medical service and free schooling for their children. The only thing that they had to provide was food. This they did by tending the allotments around the building. It is sad to think that all lighthouses are controlled by computer from Essex.
We walked back to the ‘Most Southerly Cafe in England’ and had our obligatory Cornish cream and jam scones with tea and filter coffee.
Given the remaining short time that we had we went off in the opposite direction until we had a view of Kynance Cove.
The flowers in the area were stunning; one purple flower stood out from the rest and happily populated many areas of the cliff face.
We also encountered a bird called a chough. It seemed happy to drop off the edge of the cliff, but was much more careful in falling off a chair back on to the floor. It preferred to do it by a series of hops.
From here we elected to go on to Porthleven. It is a risky town to visit. The car park meter behaves like a one armed bandit that cheats. At first we thought that we had hit the jackpot, but then we found that we had been had when the ticket revealed that we had been charged excessively for one hour parking when we wanted two. Just to get our own back we hurried through the town passed the harbour which guarded from invasion by two mighty cannons. I presume that they were put there to prevent being invaded by Spanish cucumbers[2].
Once back to ‘Lyndon’ it was time to download photos and go down to the lounge to access the internet. Having had the fish and chip meal at the Newquay Arms by our breakfast companions we decided to follow suit. This time we entered by top through the terrace areas. You get a totally different impression. Also, this time the restaurant was staffed by busy young ladies in their black uniforms, the outside door was open wide and two families were already dining. A pint and a half of Stella was used to wash down the large piece of succulent fish and no fat large potato wedges. I chose to have the mushy peas (unheard of in Australia – blog ‘We Are Kiwis Now’) and tactfully ordered garden peas for mum. We finished off with chocolate brownie ice cream cake. Not a bad meal for two for £15 all in.
This time we got back to the room dry. We had a game of ‘Up Words’ before NCIS and bed. We do live life to the full.
Thursday 9th June
Heavy rain woke us, the sky is blue and sun is shining, but showers are forecast for the morning. We shall see how our relaxed New Quay day goes. It’s now 2:30 pm. Taking it easy has failed. We walked down to beach, up some steps to the island level,
On the left is a private island. It has a house on it and is cut off at low tide.
along the cliff top, down more steps, along the tramway (this is a bricked walkway with two parallel lines of bricks at right angles to the other bricks), out on to a shopping area, back along the cliff edge, through a close of quality houses, around a style and across a little meadow. At least we stopped for a few minutes here. This was to draw the view. This was when I discovered that the colouring pencils weren’t in the art bag. Irene had to be content with using soft drawing pencils. As I type she is colouring the drawing in, having had a quick look at the photo that she took.
The Bridge on to Island
On the Island
We were on one long side of a bay enclosing clear water and golden sand. The other side was an arm of land to which was attached an island. The top of the island was to be our destination. This meant walking around the end of the bay, which involved going up through a road bridge, up some more steps, up a slightly inclined road and into the meadow which led to the bridge which led to the hill which was to be the end of our journey. It was beautifully rugged. At one point the boom of the sea hitting the rocks was loud as spray rose into the air.
Near the top a gull’s nest was clearly visible so in good ‘David Attenborough’ style I lay on the mossy grass with camera atop a tussock and waited. The pair could clearly be seen just outside a small hole in the cliff. The chicks were obviously being fed, but did not show themselves.
On the way back to the mainland Irene spotted a pair of brightly coloured insects which meant changing my lens and by coincidence my camera card. Fortunately, the insects did not seem to be in any particular hurry. I think that they were too busy doing insect type things.
We made our way back to the cafe at Porth to have the pot of tea for one, a latte for me and two pieces of Bakewell tart (a piece each). And then it was the walk back to chill out on the bed, were I am sitting, at the time of writing.
The afternoon was just as restful. It consisted of walking up to road, Irene buying pressies and postcards, me nipping to Sainsburys to by some bottles of fruit juice and then hauling ourselves ever upwards and to the right until we reached Fistral Beach.
This beach is the place where world championship surfboarding takes. It is overlooked by the magnificent ‘Headland Hotel’.
We went down on to the beach to write messages to the two girls in New Zealand and then it was back up and onwards to the headland itself. We both chickened out of the walk up and down the headland, but wanted to see the large cross and the small white building nearby.
Cross and Moon
The cross was in memory of an ancient admiralty building and doubled as the town’s war memorial.
Further on the white building turned out to be the huer’s cottage. This was inhabited by a man known as a ‘huer’. He would raise the hue and cry when shoals of pilchards were visible. Then it was back along the other side of the headland down towards the harbour, up to the main road, down to our beach and up a big flight of steps to our room. After a brief rest it was a case of uphill to the Newquay Arms for our third visit. Tasty reasonably priced food can always be repeated and I repeated the ordering of ‘Hunters Chicken’ while Irene had the bean chilli. This was finished off by a repeated order of chocolate brownie ice cream cake and a similar repeat of one and half pints of Stella.
We are now backing in the room. It is 8:00 pm, the sun is shining in. Irene is completing her drawing. I won’t mention her struggle to represent flowers in coloured pencil. Soon it will be time settle down for a last night here and a 10:00 am return on Friday.
This has truly been an inspirational place. We have been nowhere else in the country where the water has been so blue, where there has been a surprising vista around every corner and where such a large variety of colourful wildflowers have bloomed in any one area. This is ‘must go back one day place’.
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